Day Nine - Kuta, Booze and Food
In the evening, after a day of tiring relaxation by the pool, we head into Kuta for a meal. Something I totally disagree with the Lonely Planet and the Rough Guide about is that perhaps surprisingly, the exchange rates in the Nusa Dua Galleria are superior to that of any of the numerous money changers in the Kuta region. Admittedly it's not substantial, but generally as mush as 1,000rp to the pound. This is a not a new thing, I made a mental note about when it when we were last here. I resolve to send a letter to the guides on our return to England.
However, that's about the only thing that is better value, and frankly, beer tastes a lot nicer when cheap, as it does when we sit in a bar along the main Kuta road enjoying a cold Bintang at around 75p a pint. I like Bintang - it's a good quality beer. So frequently when one goes to another country and tries the local beer it comes across as perfectly amiable initially, yet after a week I get totally sick of it and move on to the imported beers. In Barbados, Banks I grew totally sick of and switched to the lovely, refreshing Red Stripe. In Malta, Cïsk got as bland as is possible, and even Lowenbrau was more preferable. Egypt's 'Stella' was always crap, and without any redeeming feature, or alternative. However, Bintang, and its counterpart, Bali Hai come recommended, and remain my drink of choice here, especially when up against the dull, weak and profoundly more expensive Carlsberg and Heineken.
Along the main Jalan Legian Road, we find an exquisite restaurant, The Ketupat. It's not easy to find as it's down a side alley, next to a lovely antique shop, The Jonathan Gallery. The restaurant has one of the most intoxicatingly exquisite surroundings I've been in in any restaurant anywhere - little huts are dotted around where you sit in cross-legged and shoeless, overlooking a shallow low-lit pool, with attentive waiters milling around. It's all the more amazing when you consider we're in the middle of the noisiest and brashest town in the whole of Bali. The entire outside area of the restaurant is atmospheric and quiet with only the ubiquitous chiming noises heard throughout the entirety of Bali.
The food's good too, as we enjoy an inviting selection of indigenous dishes - chicken saté kebabs come skewered on roots on lemongrass and it's all delicately prepared and presented. For such a setting and quality, you'd imagine the prices to be horrendous, yet the three-course meal with drinks comes to under £20 - excellent value all round.
With that, we retire to a taxi back to the hotel so get some necessary sleep before our 25km bike ride tomorrow. Oh joy...