Day Eight - White Water Rafting

  • The River Ayung » Click to zoom ->

    The River Ayung

  • Whitewater rafting down the Ayung » Click to zoom ->

    Whitewater rafting down the Ayung

  • Locals selling drinks on the side of the River Ayung » Click to zoom ->

    Locals selling drinks on the side of the River Ayung

It's an early start. Like, we're getting picked up at 8:45am. The alarm call wakes us out of a deep sleep at 7:30am, and we're so tired that during the transfer to the Ubud area for the white-water rafting that we both doze off shortly. Going beyond Kuta in the van, we start to leave the more built-up areas of the southern region, and start to enter the rural countryside lined with rice fields, literally hundreds of intricate temples, and craft shops.

The rafting takes place on a 7km stretch of the Ayung River, containing nearly thirty type II & III rapids. Actually, this probably sounds a lot more challenging than it in fact is. September is at the tail end of the dry season and as such the river won't exactly be death-defying. But that's missing the point - the main pleasure of the trip is to enjoy the stunningly lush rain-forest scenery on either side of the valley as we sail down.

Initially, however, we have to walk down the precarious steps several hundred feet down to the base of the valley by the fast-flowing river. Disgustingly, I sweat incredibly easily, and especially in the humid conditions, so by the time we reach the bottom I'm beyond perspiration and am drenched, clutching my near empty bottle of water. Oh, how much fun the trip walking up will be.

We're on the boat with our guide and a Japanese couple, who seem humourless and quiet. In between the odd, easily traversed rapid, we are able to allow the river to pull us along and gaze at the thick greenery all around. Save for the occasional mutual splashing of other rafts with our oars, it feels like being in Apocalypse Now, though thankfully without the napalm and gooks that want us dead. In keeping with this, throughout our two-hour plus trip, the scenery steadily changes, the valley steadily plateuing out with occasional Balinese local washing their clothes, naked, in the river.

It's immensely enjoyable, good fun and relaxing at the same time, and the accompanying peace is therapeutic, broken only by the occasional birdsong. On several occasions we see a beautiful Bali Kingfisher standing on a rock, only to fly skyward displaying his strikingly blue plumage as he notices us. Thankfully there are (we're assured) no leeches lurking in the river, otherwise we certainly would not have got out of the boat as we did at the end, lying in the water, allowing our life jackets to hold us up, and the strong pull of the river to take us to our end point and enjoyable, local style, buffet lunch,

After the long journey back to the hotel (and it is long - although on the map the distance may be shortish, the roads are not exactly pristine, and when coupled with the weaving moped riders, a short distance soon takes a ridiculously long time) we nix plans to see the sunset at Uluwatu today. It's difficult to find the energy to do more than one thing a day.

I can wholeheartedly recommend the white-water rafting. It's not strenuous or dangerous, but it is exciting, and it's not every day you get to stand underneath a picturesque waterfall allowing the refreshingly cold water plume down on you. By Balinese terms, it's not cheap at £35-40 each, but most definitely worth it. There are a couple of operators providing the trips, we went with a company called Sobek, and the service provided was impeccable.

Later in the evening, while frantically re-writing our itinerary to fit in all the things we want to do in the time left, we notice a leaflet for mountain bike riding in the centre of the island. Deciding that his would be an excellent opportunity to get out into the countryside and witness the scenery in something other than an air-conditioned van, we resolve to do this on Monday - further throwing out our timetable. How lovely it'd be to be able to spend a month or so simply travelling around Bali, staying at various hotels and perhaps even Losmen's homes. One of the disadvantages in Nusa Dua is that it is right down in the south, making northern travel a bit of an effort. We are, though, making that effort and it's satsfying now not to feel trapped in a tourist hotel and pool scenario any more.